Bedless

"I love you just the way you aaaarrrrrrre" croons the slightly off-key lounge performer on board the Midnatsol as we lumber northwards. Thanks man. Weaving between coastal settlements and deserted snowy islanded peaks, I observe them for 3 blissful hours from my own deserted island; one of two steaming open air jacuzzis atop this proud oceanic Mastodon. As snow drifts into my bubbling refuge, determined tugboats follow ferries and unexplained flashing lights blink from distant uninhabited forests. A rare spell of luxury on travels that are shortly, surely to become a touch more gruelling.

I rank amongst the youngest passengers on board and attracted glares as I attempted reorganise my rucksack in front of a wealthy mix of americans and germans, stifling the urge to sit back and declare "I'm really gonna have to offload some of this crack". Backpackers are undoubtedly a rare breed on the Hurtigruten. The staff were likewise taken aback when I explained I intended to travel sans-cabin,

"You're going to Kirkenes"
"Yes"
"...and you don't want a cabin?"
"No. Sleep is for the weak."*

*This conversation may not have taken place

With a surprisigly heavy heart I departed Tromso after enjoying my time there. The memories will linger. Snow-rafting, kiting, the northern lights, new people, students wandering the library in socks, exploring the island, finding the lake, kids in all-in-one snow-suits, a stroll round the botanic gardens to the goon show, drivers stopping to let you cross the road, no litter anywhere, recycling everywhere and always the isolating, grand, uncompromising backdrop to rely on like an old friend.

But in the words of Nelly Furtado all good things come to an end... mind you she also sang "don't you gaga goo no coochie-coo girl now ". I will attempt to find some darkened alcove to catch a little shut-eye in preparation for new shores and new adventures, starting with Hammerfest at 6:30am prompt.

Drift drift drift.

Update: Found a rug and curled up in the panoramic lounge for 2 hours of sleep before being awoken at 5am by over-keen early risers coughing and babbling German right next to me. Seemed a little confused as I tossed them overboard muttering xenophobic football-related comments, before heading back to my nap.